FKTs

Stano scrambling near Brandywine.

Fastest known time (FKT) is a phrase used by mountain runners, ski mountaineers, and climbers, among others, to refer to what is known to be the speed record for a given peak or route. A FKT acknowledges the fact that many fast ascents routinely go unrecorded and to claim to be the fastest ever in a sport with no officials may improper. It is a nod though to those of us who care and keep track of things like speed records.I doubt anyone could give a reasonable argument that interest in speed attempts and FKTs is not well rooted in our desire to impress upon others that we are the best at something, recognition always feels good, however I do believe that for myself, the interest may also stem from my time as a competitive nordic skier but also from a deep desire to sleep in my own comfortable bed each night. I do enjoy camping but generally have the philosophy that if something can be done in a day (IAD) then why prolong the suffering? I would rather cruise around the Spearhead in 5 hours with a 5 pound pack and be back to the village for a burger and home for a movie than slog around it in 3 days with a 25 pound pack suffering a snoring tent-mate and dehydrated food. Below is a collection of FKTs for peaks and routes in my area and others that I am interested in. They have no particular significance aside from the fact that I have heard of them and they seem fun. I try to keep abreast of changes but leave a comment if I am missing something! All times are car-to-car (or trailhead-to-trailhead) unless noted.

BC:

Run:
Stawamus Chief 1st Peak Strava Segment:
  • MEN: Nick E – 17:35 *Strava shows a faster men’s time but is not truly signpost to summit so Nick’s is the correct record.
  • WOMEN: Abby Morgan – 24:00
Howe Sound Crest Trail:
Sea to Sky Gondola, Sea to Summit Trail (both in 2016 race):
Sea to Sky Gondola, EVAC Route Strava Segment:
Sky Pilot from Gondola top Stn. (round trip):
Rubble Creek Classic (Chekamus Lake Parking Lot to Rubble Creek Parking Lot):
  • MEN: Nick Elson – 1:47:27
  • WOMEN: ? Anne Marie Madden ?
Castle Towers (Round trip from Chekamus Lake Parking Lot):
Black Tusk (Round trip from Rubble Creek Parking Lot):
Tantalus Traverse Lite (Tantalus Summit only, Sigurd Creek TH to LLW TH):
Tantalus Traverse  (Pelion, Tantalus, Dione, Serratus, Alpha, Sigurd Creek to LLW Trailhead):
Mount Serratus (Haberl Hut to Haberl Hut, up West Rib, down North Face):
  • Ross Berg ~45min
Kingdom Come Traverse (Alpha, Serratus, Ionia, Panderous, Red Tusk, Lydia, Niobe, Pelops, Iota, Omega Summits):
  • Andrew Rennie ~30hrs (?)
Grouse Grind:
Baden Powell Trail (Knee Knacker):
Wedgemount Lake 5 Peak Traverse (Cook, Weart, Wedge, Parkhurst, Rethel Summits):
  • Eric Carter – 11hrs 49min (*accompanied partially by Matt Hall)
Stein Valley Traverse (trailhead to trailhead):
Garibaldi Lake Circumnavigation (from Rubble Creek Trailhead):
  • Eric C & Nick E – 12:08:23 (Prev. Peter Croft – using a direct line up Sphinx N Ridge so better style!)
West Lion (car to car):
  • Men: Eric Carter – 2:04:52 (Prev. Mike Murphy – 2:12:38)
  • Women: ?
  • Note: Nick Elson set a fast time on the West Lion via the NE Buttress, a technical climbing route that he soloed in 2:42:24 round trip.
Mt. Harvey:
Mt. Brunswick:
Also good objectives that I don’t have any info on;
Blackcomb Buttress from Rendevouz to Summit
Garibaldi Peak – From the yellow gate on Brohm Ridge
Mount Wedge – Car to Car
Alpha – River to River (maybe Nick Elson?)
Ski:
Tantalus Traverse:
Blackcomb – Mt. Currie Traverse (Ski, Village to Logging Rd):
  • ~13.5hrs Christian Veenstra
Garibaldi Park Traverse (Currie-Spearhead-McBride-Neve-Elfin):
Bugs-Rogers Pass Traverse:
  • Troy Jungen et al., ~80hrs
Semi-Alcoholic Traverse:
Joffre Group Steep Ski Linkup (Joffre Aussie Couloir, Matier NW Face, Slalok N Face):
Garibaldi Neve Traverse:
Spearhead-lite Traverse:
Complete Spearhead Traverse (Start at Blackcomb Base and finish over Whistler Peak and out to Village):
McBride Range Ski Traverse:
COAST RANGE TRAVERSE (the baddest of them all!):
Climbing:
Squamish Buttress:
  • MEN: Hamish Fraser – 33min (Diedre + Squamish Buttress)
  • WOMEN:
Grand Wall (base to top of Roman Chimneys):
  • MEN: 38 minutes Alex Honnold
  • WOMEN:
Slesse, Northeast Buttress (base to summit):
  • MEN: 1:08 Marc-Andre Leclerc
Washington:
Mt. Rainier (overall speed record – uses skis):
Mt. Rainier (Gib Chute):
Mt. Rainier (Liberty Ridge):
Mt. Rainier (running):
Mt. Baker (Coleman-Demming Route):
Mt. Baker (Climb N. Ridge, descend Coleman-Demming):
Mt. Stuart – Scott Bennett (5:57)
Forbidden Peak – Scott Bennett (4:54)

Other USA:

Grand Teton (Owen Spaulding Route):

Teton Grand Traverse:

  • MEN: Nick Elson – 6hr30m (Previously Rolo Garibotti – 6:49)
  • WOMEN: Jeanelle Smiley – 12:17?

Denali (Cassin Ridge): Colin Mother Fucking Haley – 8:07! (prev – Jonathan Griffith & Will Sim 14:40.0)

Denali (overall):

  • Men – Kilian Jornet – 11:40
  • Women – Katie Bono – 21:06

Half Dome:

  • MEN: Nick Elson – 2:03:52 (Prev. Dean Potter – 2:19 *via a more direct but also more technical route – Snake Dike)
  • WOMEN:

Mt. Shasta (ascent only): Ryan Ghelfi – 1:36:13

This page has a discussion on ethics and style for FKTs. Really though, the key is being honest. Otherwise, part of the fun is that the rules are there are no rules!

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